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anoduck
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I ran up on this and was pretty impressed. Don't know if anyone has tried to build one of their own. It is a fascinating design, and I am interested in how the internal baffles interact with the wave. img.asp
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@eco32 I do appreciate the generosity of the assist. I stumbled upon an article explaining how to make your own inclinometer and a laser to basically do the same thing. As probably figured out by now, the answer was on the slide I had posted earlier. Offset angle is the same thing as tilt. So for my older HughesNet offset dish the answer was 16.6 degrees. My second build was much more precise than the first build, but performance is about the same. I mounted the first build to a used Directv dish and the second to my hughesnet dish. Both have been relocated to the roof of my house, and will probably build a bester for 5GHZ to add to the Hughesnet dish as well. Location is probably the biggest problem I have with the setup. The trees are very thick, and then there is this gigantic hill that blocks the line of sight to the target area. I am working on building a passive repeater to overcome the hill, and shopping for a deal on an amplifier with some serious wattage. Good quality amplifiers are damn expensive, which really sucks.
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@AdminThis does not answer the question though, it only answers the obvious first part. Which was, what angle does the dish need to be set to? I apologize, I didn't take calculus in college. So I wouldn't know where to begin to formulate a function to find the angle. Regardless, I am starting another build of the bester. Iust have buggered up the first build.
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@Admin is of course correct. There was never a question about it, the guy knows his stuff. Which is why I am here, to proverbially drink from the fountain of his knowledge. ------------------------------------------------------------------ @Admin 1. So, is 26.5 straightforward? 2. Is this angle universal for all dishes? ----------------------------------------------------------------- @eco32 Just restating to make sure I understand this correctly. If I hold a lazer where the bester is, the lazer should hit the dish, and reflect off the dish. Then a piece of paper can be used to show where the beam of the lazer is reflected to?
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So, I am guessing 26.5 is straight forward? It looks correct.
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I thought I had made a post that explained I re-inverted the dish. Firefox must have crashed then. OK, I will try setting it to that angle. These are the specs for my specific antenna.
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References for aligning dish angle and calculating the offset. For prosperity. http://k5tra.net/Graphics/10 GHz/Offset feed dish calculations.pdf https://www.satsig.net/22-deg-offset-dish.htm
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anoduck changed their profile photo
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Just ran another scan for comparison, and I am receiving better connectivity with the standard rubber coated antenna than the bester. So something is definitely off. Looks like I am off to troubleshoot..
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I just finished the build no less than thirty minutes ago, the antenna is hooked up, and the first scan has just ran. Admittedly, the results are not as good as I had hoped, so I am troubleshooting the setup to see what, if anything, went wrong. I am getting just about the same result from the bester and satellite dish as I was from the cantenna I built and used indoors. These are the potential issues I am looking at. 1. Bad coax cable 2. unaligned reciever (bester antenna) 3. unaligned dish 4. faulty soldered bulkhead. 5. Bent element.
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The entire configuration will be made of steel, because the aluminum disks didn't turn out too well. I just finished cutting the baseplate with a cut off disk and an angle grinder. ----- Just for reference purposes, I ran across this article: Hackaday: Soldering Aluminum. It describes a method of scouring aluminum using mineral oil and an abrasive in order to prevent oxidation build up.
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Is this better than adding a horn? I know stupid question.
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I never quite understood how tiny this antenna is until now.
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I will be using steel for the baseplate. Regardless, you may not be able to solder aluminum, but you can braze it if you have the correct flux mixture. I have done this before, creating a transfer port for an air rifle. You just have to get it really, really hot. Although creating a jig to hold the copper wire for the bulkhead squarely to the baseplate would be a headache I do not wish for,
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You are correct by this. Antennas are made of numerous materials, it matters little. I prefer working with aluminum, as it is extremely easy to shape by hand, but had concerns it was too soft, and would get bent to hell and back if dropped. This alone is why I was considering copper, because it is still pretty malleable by hand, but is harder than aluminum. SMA bulkhead arrived yesterday, hoping to get time for the build this weekend.
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No, sir. I am having to convert the measurements to Imperial Units because of available tooling and material availability. Also, I am also having to round measurements to 1/16th of an inch, because I know my personal fabrication tolerances are limited to 1\16th with the tools I have. I could probably do 32nds, but 64ths are a pretty lofty goal at this point. Since I am going to need to order the SMA bulkheads anyway, I will probably end up purchasing the raw materials online as well. I found a 4" x 4" copper sheet that is 0.06 inch (1.52 mm) in thickness for $11, which isn't outrageously expensive. If I can find a 6" x 4" or a 6" x 6" sheet 0.02 inch (0.51 mm) thick, this should do for the disc nodes. Looking at copper tubing for the central mast, and hoping one of the big bolts that went to a lawnmower will work to piece it all together.