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rob

yagi 2.4Ghz yagi

239 posts in this topic

It fits easily, i dont think there is problem on this connection except if welding the silver part to sma conneftion is a problem..

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No, not this, try to show me something like this...

65.jpg

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In this way..

We taped braid to outer surface of 90mm circle and welded coax to 2nd circle plate..

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Outer wire have connection with the first plate. We checked it with multimeter and it is ok. We havent got your main idea, if you want the connect first palet and braid, we already made it..

Or do you want to passing through of braid towards to 2nd plate?

Now, I will insert these thin wores to copper sleeve and weld sleeve to biggest plate but purpose is same with what we did with tape in my opinion.....

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Do you want us to touching of black outer to first plate at outer of it and braid is going to touch inside of first plate???

This void does not make a difference bcs still it's touching and connecting to plate...

While we provide this connection, this void must be unimportant...???

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I think I'm tired, try to read what interest you , on this forum(there are many interesting...)!!!!

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In fact it is not hard to build this antenna at all.

First you must have isolation tube beteween rod and active plate like this:

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Just look at the profile picture ,it is easy to build,and remember  ..active plate must have be ISOLATED from ROD/ bar 

yaggi.png

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Aurel, the most correct one would be,,,,

 

8.jpg

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heh yes, and most correct also would be to use plastic rod with plastic screws

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I am not sure about this... but  I have to check it....!!!

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On 3/9/2020 at 7:40 PM, Admin said:

TRY TO DO THIS...!!!

2.jpg

Better try to do like this:

Лучше try to do вот так:

 

IMG_20191103_104304.jpg

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Thanks all of you,

Admin helped me very much but didn't say isolate somewhere etc. but it's okay bcs probably his main point was more important for him (connection tube around cable)...

Also already we insulated the driven plate and checked it with multimeter and was okay. Then outer braid of cable was soldered to biggest plate; then edge of center conductor of cable was soldered to second isolated plate.

I mean is that tube which passes through the biggest plate crucial? If so, I couldn't realize the logic behind this mechanism bcs in my opinion it touches and more of it is cosmetic and appearance... I'm reading and learning everything I saw but couldn't understand the importance of that piece. Bcs our antenna doesn't work and it can't be just that small piece like a tunnel for cable.

Thanks lot again.

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Main conflict that we couldn't solve/or I couldn't understand is that:

Does copper shield must be touched to the biggest plate or not?

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The tube is needed for reliability. 
You don't need to isolate anything anywhere. 
The cable braid must be in contact with the largest disk.

Also:
Instead of the RG-58 cable (high signal loss), it is better to use rg-6.
The antenna made of copper cannot be used on the street.

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[offtop]

Multiple beer cans + electrode + super glue = 3G antenna :)

[/offtop]

IMG_20181002_085450.jpg

IMG_20181002_110455.jpg

Снимок+экрана+от+2018-10-02+10-44-50.png

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Then what is the ideal material for outdoor antenna?

If copper get wet then does it works still?

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1 hour ago, mfa56 said:

Then what is the ideal material for outdoor antenna?

Galvanized steel 0.5 mm

The сentral copper core of the coaxial cable must be protected from moisture. You can use nail polish.

1 hour ago, mfa56 said:

If copper get wet then does it works still?

I hope I translated the question correctly.

Wet copper will work, but over time it will begin to oxidize (deteriorate), and this may negatively affect its performance.

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,,,,this is the simulation of the antenna with the isolating support rod (to use plastic rod with plastic screws) ....

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Thank you jomy on simulation.

Quote

 

The tube is needed for reliability. 
You don't need to isolate anything anywhere. 
The cable braid must be in contact with the largest disk.

Also:
Instead of the RG-58 cable (high signal loss), it is better to use rg-6.
The antenna made of copper cannot be used on the street.

 

vars-cat I am really dissapointed in your explanation, active plate 68mm dia MUST BE ISOLATED from metal rod, big last metal plate is REFLECTOR  90mm

which there is no need to be isolated from metal rod, finished copper plate can be spayed with metal primer to protect copper.

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1 hour ago, aurel said:

active plate 68mm dia MUST BE ISOLATED from metal rod

aurel, I am really dissapointed in your explanation, active plate DO NOT MUST BE ISOLATED from metal rod.

Here is a simulation of an antenna without isolating the active disk:

1800 MHz - https://ypylypenko.livejournal.com/57630.html

2100 MHz - https://ypylypenko.livejournal.com/73658.html

2400 MHz - https://ypylypenko.livejournal.com/75267.html

2600 MHz - https://ypylypenko.livejournal.com/57985.html

All antennas work well without isolating the active disk.

 

1 hour ago, aurel said:

finished copper plate can be spayed with metal primer to protect copper.

I wanted to say that on the street you can not use copper without protection.

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Thank you jomy on simulation.

Quote

 

 

vars-cat

forget about simulation ,every simulation show optimal or ideal values and don't represent real things.

Do you have on your wifi card any program which show you signal strength?

If you have such a program you will see a difference in signall strenght when active plate is connected to rod and when is not .

There is no speculation about that and i know that from my experience.

This antenna as such is asimetric half wave dipole  and as such require isolation between active element and radiator/reflector which must be grounded.

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